HOW TO GET PERFECT SKIN WITH MAKEUP



Find Your Perfect Skin Sweet Spot

SHOWERING
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iStockphoto/Thinkstock
Would you believe that something as innocuous as water can offend your pH levels? Every time you come in contact with it, the lipid barrier of your skin—the one that holds all the healthy fats that keep skin soft and plump—wears away a bit, says Jeannette Graf, M.D., an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine. Think of your skin's barrier as the paint on the outside of a house: Over the years, rain and snow cause it to splinter, resulting in the house losing some of its insulation from the elements. So back to skin: For your skin that translates into poor body temperature regulation. When it loses its natural oils, too-alkaline skin gets even drier, stiffer, and more prone to wrinkling; too-acidic skin becomes extra sensitive and even oilier (skin compensates for a lack of moisture by ramping up oil production).

 

The sweet spot:Keep your showers quick (and limit long soak sessions in the bathtub), and skip a day or two each week if you can—seriously: The skin on your body isn't meant to be washed daily, says Graf. If you can't tolerate a lukewarm temp—the healthiest skin treatment—at least crank it down from hot to warm to keep blood vessels from dilating and leading to even more moisture loss. And consider adding a hard-water filter to your showerhead. It will keep away minerals like phosphorous and chlorine, both of which can throw off your skin's pH.

 

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TREATMENT
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Claire Benoist
When we sleep, our skin's pH drops, signaling enzymes within the acid mantle to repair any damage that's been done. You won't ruin your skin's pH by not applying a treatment product at night, but using one can speed up renewal.

 

The sweet spot:Not only does retinol smooth wrinkles, minimize pores, and help fade dark spots, but it may also help skin maintain a healthy pH, says Graf. If skin is acidic, trySkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0(, ). For alkaline skin, try a gentler form of retinol likeEau Thermale Avene Ystheal + Lotion(, for stores); start applying every other night, then add an extra weekly dose each month until you're up to seven nights a week.

 

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EXFOLIATING
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Claire Benoist
There's a reason 5-year-olds have perfectly plump, radiant skin: It retains an obscene amount of moisture, even in the outer (dead) layer. This hydration level plummets with each birthday we pass, setting off an enzymatic reaction that results in a pileup of dead cells on the skin's surface. And dead cells are like dead weight: They need to be removed. . .but properly. Under- or over-exfoliating will eff with your skin's magic number.

 

The sweet spot:It's simple, really: If your skin is super-dry and flaky (read: alkaline), step up your exfoliation game. If it's red and inflamed (acidic), you need to exfoliate less. The ideal regimen for both is daily manual exfoliation and a once-a-week glycolic acid peel (acidic ladies: two times a week max!).

 

The gentlest manual exfoliators are scrubs whose particles are so fine that you can barely see or feel them. Try Neutrogena Naturals Purifying Pure Scrub (.49, drugstore.com). Or use a soft-bristled rotating brush likeOlay Pro-X Advanced Cleansing System(, at drugstores) on the lowest setting to minimize irritation.

 

With the glycolic peel, make sure it has a built-in neutralizer or contains a separate neutralizing product, which returns skin to a neutral pH after the acidic exfoliation. Try Boots No. 7 Advanced Renewal Anti-Aging Glycolic Peel Kit (, at Target). Also make sure your peel doesn't contain hydrogen peroxide, which damages the skin's acid mantle, says Dennis Gross, M.D., a New York City dermatologist.

 

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CLEANSING
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Claire Benoist
Many cleansers (particularly those that leave you feeling squeaky) can be as high as a 9 on the alkaline scale. Others—intense, detergent-based ones—are way too stripping, even if your skin is super-greasy. (We repeat: Overdrying your skin's outer layer will cause your sebaceous glands to pump out more oil.)

 

The sweet spot:In the morning (and post-gym), stick to a tissue-off cleansing cream if you're alkaline and fragrance-free wipes containing no harsh irritants if you're acidic. TryDr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Face Cleanser(.50, ) orSimple Cleansing Facial Wipes(.49, at drugstores). At night, alkaline types fare best with a repairing cleanser labeled "pH balanced" or "balancing," which indicates a pH between 4 and 5.5. TryElemis Balancing Lime Blossom Cleanser(, ). Acidic folks should go for a formula containing salicylic acid or polyhydroxy acids to help break down excess oil. Try Clean & Clear Advantage Oil Absorbing Cream Cleanser (.49, at drugstores).

 

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MOISTURIZING
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Claire Benoist
No matter what your skin type, you need moisturizer not only to replace what you lose from showering, cleansing, being outside, or even being inside with dry heat but also to seal it in place. "Our skin naturally retains moisture through small molecules called its natural moisturizing factor (NMF)," explains Graf. "But it needs a layer of fatty acids above the NMF layer to keep the moisture in place."

 

The sweet spot:Look for a product with fatty acids like ceramides, niacyl, and liposomes, says Wexler. One that also contains hyaluronic acid (which holds hundreds of times its weight in water) will further slow down evaporation. Oily skin responds well to light, sheer gels or lotions; tryPhilosophy Take a Deep Breath(, ). Dry types need a richer cream, likeElizabeth Arden Ceramide Premiere Intense Moisture + Renewal Cream(, ). If skin is extremely parched, add oil to your p.m. routine to restore your skin's barrier. After applying your cream, smooth on a few drops of argan or emu oil.





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Date: 07.12.2018, 16:33 / Views: 43354