How to make cucumber every year
When digging, we make compost (4-5 kg per 1 sq. M.), Carefully weighed it into the soil, so that the sprout fly and cucumber mosquito could not lay the larvae, from which it is very difficult to get rid of later.
In some years we do without compost, we sow mustard, we chop it before flowering in autumn and we seal up when digging into the top layer of the bed.
At the beginning of May, the soil is loosened with a trident with simultaneous introduction of complex fertilizers (1 tbsp per 1 sq. M). On the bed we stretch the old film so that the soil warms up at a depth of 8–10 cm to 12–13˚. Then we remove it, with a hoe we make holes 7–10 cm deep in 2 rows through 60 cm, placing them in a checkerboard pattern.
Level the bottom of the hole, spill boiling water or a weak solution (pink) potassium permanganate. Place 4–5 cucumber seeds in each well, sprinkle 1 cm on wet soil. Then close the bed tightly with a clean thin non-woven cloth and film on top, carefully fixing the edges with iron straps. This allows us to sow the cucumber 2-3 weeks earlier than usual.
The beginning of the growing season this year was successful, the shoots appeared amicable, the seedlings grew well and developed.
The soil that has been mululched in this way is not compacted, retains moisture, warms up well and simplifies maintenance. As the plant grew, the leaves were completely covered with leaves. Irrigation and top dressing was done only in the holes. We cover the bed with a translucent film instead of a black film, under which even the weeds do not germinate. Of course, it takes 1-2 times to remove germinating weeds.
When growing cucumber in the garden you need to be careful to help the plants in extreme conditions. This year, we had to supplement our technology with three new methods:
- After the cold, the heat began, the soil in the holes dried up, we covered them with dry grass, which greatly reduced the water flow during irrigation;
- sharp daily changes in air temperature in July after a long June cold weather slowed down the development of plants.
Downy powdery mildew appeared.
Spraying plants with a solution of "Immunocytophyte" (1 tablets per 1.5 liters of water) helped to increase the natural immunity. After some time, thrips appeared on individual plants, I had to remove several leaves and repeat the treatment at the same concentration;
- further heat was established, the plants began to grow rapidly, bloom profusely. At the same time, many lateral shoots with thick, succulent leaves appeared, which shaded each other to the detriment of fruiting. Even the lower leaves began to turn yellow, fruiting was delayed. Urgently raised them on the trellis in the form of tents. For this, we installed three vinyl tubes each, the ends of which were buried in the holes, and the upper ones were tied up with a string.
Raise the plants on the supports should be before watering, so as not to break fragile stems.
The main stem of each plant was fastened to a vertical trellis with string, and the side shoots were pinned to 2-3 leaves. Plants are better illuminated by the sun. In the tents created a more favorable microclimate and optimal humidity. Bees got free access to flowers.
From that moment on, we watched that the shoots did not cling to other twine strings, creating thickets. At times, they were returned to their seats and twisted clockwise.
The care was considerably simplified, the aisles were cleared in the aisles, where the lashes descended, the stems and leaves did not break, and the search for fruits took less time. Just a week later, the result was obvious.Cucumbers collected buckets. The summer residents of the neighboring vegetable gardens dropped their hands, the plants turned yellow, the vegetation of the cucumber ended early, and we continued to harvest in September.
After the first wave of fruiting, the leaves became coarse, prickly, the roots of the second and third order grew old and died. For rejuvenation and the formation of adventitious roots, they poured humus into the wells, the plants were sprinkled with a solution of urea (1.5 g per 1 l of water). The leaves have acquired an intense green color, have become softer to the touch, and the ability to fruiting continued until the autumn frosts.
Date: 09.10.2018, 09:22 / Views: 93335
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